Nepal Trip II - Annapurna Circuit

Whenever I look at the Nepal photo again, I tell myself: "You have to go back again. This time, you have to come home with a better memory of the country". So, I decided to do it when I am 40. Mentally prepare for the kind of living condition and food, I took on a more challenging route, Annapurnam Circuit, a 18 days trek. Again without training and a last minute urgent leave application from Mum, I packed my backpack only 10 hours prior the departure time.. departing Singapore on 21 November 2009 full of enthusiasm

Day 1 - 21/11 Arrival in ktm airport - private transport to Besishahar (6½ hrs)

Day 2 - 22/11 Basishahar – Bahudanda 1310m (5½ hrs)

Day 3 - 23/11 Bahundanda – Chamje 1385m (5½ hrs)
Day 4 - 24/11 Chamje – Dharapani 1900m (7 hrs)
Day 5 - 25/11 Dharapani – Temang 2515m (5 hrs)
Day 6 - 26/11 Temang – Chame 2710 m (3½ hrs)
Day 7 - 27/11 Chame – Pisang 3250 m (5 hrs)
Day 8 - 28/11 Pisang – Manang 3540 m via Upper Pisang (6 ½ hrs)
Day 9 - 29/11 Manang acclimatization rest, side trips
Day 10 - 30/11 Manang – Yak Kharka 4018 m (5 hrs)
Day 11 - 01/12 Yak kharka – Thorong Phedi 4450 m (3 hrs)
Day 12 - 03/12 Phedi. Failed to summit due to smoking 2 sticks in the morning.
Day 13 - 03/12 Phedi – Thorong la pass 5416 m. – Muktinath 3800 m (17 hrs)
Day 14 - 04/12 Muktinath to Kagbeni to Marpha apple capital of Nepal via wind valley 2670 m (9 ½ hrs)
Day 15 - 05/12 Marpha – Kalopani 2535 m (5 ½ hrs)
Day 16 - 06/12 Kalopani – Tatopani (hot spring) 1200 m (6 hrs)
Day 17 - 07/12 Tatopani – Ghorepani 2870 m (7 hrs)
Day 18 - 08/12 Ghorepani – Poon hill (5 ½ hrs). Too foggy for the sunrise, so stay for another day.
Day 19 - 09/12 Ghorepani – Poon hill – Tikhedhunga hille 1340 m. (5 ½ hrs)
Day 20 - 10/12 Tikhedhunga - Nayapul 1070 m (6 hrs) and 1½ hrs drive to Pokhara
Day 21 - 11/12 Pokhara to Kathmandu (12 ½ hr) via public transport
Day 22 - 12/12 Kathmandu back to Singapore

Marpha to Tatopani

This flower was printed on my TIMS card and I guess it's their National flower. Both my guide porter and the diplomat (I met on the flight) doesn't know if this flower does symbolise Nepal or not.

Thorung La Pass

It's sad I didn't take any photo at the summit. I was dead tired and was scolded by my guide so many times to continue ascending. We quarrelled on the way up and down. I wish to break off with him at the summit, but I know I can't make it down without any guidance. Nevertheless, thanks to him for carrying me over the narrow slippery path near the cliff. and also saving me when I glide too fast down the hill.

Righfully, we need to reach the summit by 7am before the full Sun rise and descend back to the ground by noon before the wind get stronger and the snow melt. But I didn't manage to go by the schedule. As the snow melt, the ice began to resurface and that is the how painful my Thorung La Pass is accomplished.

The ascending should start at 4am. There are uphills and only uphills. I won't even dare to look up cos it is going to be very demoralising to see that the summit is not even within sight.

You need a sun glass to pass the Thorung La Pass cos when the sun rise, the direct reflection on the snow will cause you go blind. I break my sunglasses on the way to High Camp. Fortunately, I manage to tied the broken sunglass to my spectacle... It is a torturous journey which I question myself "Why do it"

These are my mental support friend, (left to right) Marina, Depak and Helena. I didn't make it to the summit with them on that day.... reason being I smoke on that morning and was out in the icy open air at 4 am. They call it mountain sickness, but it is not... I regret for not able to conquer the mountain together with them. Deepest regret for this Nepal trek.... but I asked for that, didn't I?

Upper Pisang to Manag

Part of the waterfall had already been frozen. My camera isn't that good to zoom for the effect... but it is amazing to know waterfall will be frozen. It is also sad to know during winter, the villages will run out of water. 

At Manag, I finally got a single room by myself. It has a wonderful view of sunrise and sunset. The sky is so clear and full of stars that you don't need a touch or street light in Nepal.

I saw 2 shooting stars that night, but was told that this is common as Nepal's sky is so clear that you can see the movement of every stars... nevertheless, I still hope my wishes come true.

Chame to Pisang

Shepard dogs. Very lucky to see 2 of them.

Donkeys are used as a means of transports, carrying metals, foods and neccessity stuffs from villages to villages. Felt so bad for unable to finish my meals everday.

I was once knocked down by them and my day pack was being stamped on. Fallen onto a thorny bushes, it made my trek for that day unbearable. I was lucky to have Marina around. We went to a dark cave whereby I strip myself off to check for thorns. 2 days later, I still found thorns sticking out from my pants.

Dharapani to Temang

Man clearing the path after landsliding.

Eventually, I come across some landsliding paths that is very narrow and near the cliff. The toughest one to pass is at Tal where I need to climb over the landslided rock. Thanks to my guide and the army who pulled me up the slope.

Bahudanda to Chamje

First impressive bridge to pass... but there are more as I trekked along. This is also an ugyelist bridge I would not want to go back. I saw buffalo being forced to cross such bridges. They were blindflooded as they crossed and yet they were really scared to shit. Meanwhile, I saw audience laughing as they watched.

The music of pressure as the buffalo was blindfolded and pulled/pushed across the bridge. Just wonder, what kind of life is awaiting for him when he comes over.

Beshisahar to Bahudanda

I would be doing my trek with Marina, a French Lady whom I 'meet on the Nepal Trekking Forum. Susan, a Holland lady join us later. We took a private transport from Thamel to Beshisahar at USD109. It is very expensive and crampy, but if I were to do the trek again, I think I will still choose to do it this way.

(Left to right) Marina, Susan and me.

Marina is a easy going lady and she doesn't have a porter. Throughout the Nepal trek, she carry her backpack without any help and complaint. Even when we climb over the landslided rock, she never give up her backpack. Susuan is just like a typical backpacker who overloaded her porter.

My first photo taking in Nepal. Nepal is 2 hours behind times, so when I woke up at 6am, it was just 4am to them. Walking around Ngadi, I simply capture a few shot of the straw house and sun rise. I almost finish my sticks there. Regretted for putting the whole pack back to the drawer.